Yak? Nak?
Yak. Maybe nak.
Bridges: Projects in Rational Tourism Development

Bridges to Rolwaling*

Frequently Asked Questions

(*These questions and answers do not, for the most part, apply to Summiters)
What exactly is "Bridges-PRTD"?

The full name of the organization is "Bridges: Projects in Rational Tourism Development." The name doesn't give a very good picture of us, for several reasons, one of the more intransigent being that we have been evolving. When we started out, in 1998, we wanted to call ourselves simply "Bridges," allowing our functional identity to evolve unconstrained by too much specificity. However, there are other "Bridges" out there, and it seemed simpler to attach a modifying subtitle rather than risk copyright hassles. At the time, "Projects in Rational Tourism Development" seemed open-ended enough to suit us... although we're no longer so sure about that.

The basic idea behind Bridges is that the preservation of our last best places must take into account that most of them are inhabited. The core problem is to find a way for the inhabitants of remote mountain destinations to maximize economic opportunity without resorting to damaging extractive industry: logging, mining, big-game hunting, poaching, large-scale hydro development, and so on. Tourism presents obvious advantages, as well as risks; for most remote destinations, low-impact independent backpacker tourism seems to allow the best compromise between development and conservation, for the following reasons:

"Rational" tourism???

There are a lot of phrases for what we're talking about, and most of them have problems. "Ecotourism" is claimed by organizations with heavy ideological baggage, lots of rules and stipulations, and no way of enforcing them; and, conversely, by hundreds of tour operators and promoters for whom it means whatever they want it to mean. "Sustainable" is a non-sequitur. What are we trying to sustain? The backwards economies and medieval life styles that are the stock-in-trade of tour operators and development agencies alike? The pace of change? But if tourism succeeds in expanding opportunities, the basic assets of the remote destination are doomed. Furthermore, if the opportunities expand, how long will these communities want to remain open to hordes of camera-clicking foreigners trouping through and commodifying their culture? This kind of tourism is inherently unsustainable. "Appropriate"? What does that mean? We chose "rational" simply because we didn't want to imply that any tourism development is okay. But we're definitely not attached to the word.

What "projects"?

The study abroad/volunteer program is conceived of as a pilot project, which, if successful, would lead to an archipelago of similar projects in developing destinations around the world. Our premise is that study and volunteer work are two forms of tourism that are good for the guest and good for the host. The problem with study and volunteer opportunities now is that they are organized from afar: people pay thousands of dollars to an organization based in New York City for the privilege of collecting iguana eggs in the Galapagos or something like that. We think the host communities should each have an office with a bulletin board -- maybe even an Internet presence; when tourists arrive, they should think, "This is a swell place. Wonder what's to do around here?" At the office they'll find out that they can go help dig a garbage pit for the afternoon, or help restore monastery frescoes; or, if they have a few weeks, an English course is needed. Or maybe help with a hydro installation. If they want to stay for a couple of months, there are ongoing research projects they can help with. Meanwhile, they'd be living in lodges or teahouses, just like other tourists, but spending more money and doing something useful.

The study/volunteer program is, therefore, a project in itself, which involves facilitating other projects. We bring people to Rolwaling and help them set up projects which are compatible with the people's needs and with the participants skills and interests. These projects could be short-term or long-term, practical, or academic. An important point is that the projects belong to the entire group and to the host community: this means that all results are shared, and can be carried on from year to year. If you can't finish up, you can return the next year (without paying additional fees); or we can look for others to continue the work. No effort is wasted.

It is worth stressing that our projects are not limited to Rolwaling Valley. There are important linkages between peripheral mountain communities and the lowland core. For instance, the question of trekking peak permit regulations involves policies set and implemented in Kathmandu. Again, many Rolwaling natives have moved to Kathmandu; there is no way to talk about the future of the valley without establishing communication with these people. In many respects, plans for Rolwaling depend on understanding what is happening elsewhere: a study illuminating the successes and failures of the national park in the the next valley will be useful in planning how to manage tourism in Rolwaling. And, for one final example, there is the garbage problem. Why bother collecting it and carrying it out of the mountains when Kathmandu itself has no effective waste management? The point is, you are not limited to actually working in Rolwaling Valley itself.

What staff is attached to Bridges?

The two directors are Seth Sicroff and Empar Alos Alabajos. We have a part-time assistant in Kathmandu, as well: Roshan Shrestha is a Nepali who is studying tourism at Tribhuwan University. Pepper Etters, a member of our 2003 team, is managing Summiters, our new mountaineering school. He is hiring two Everest summiters from Rolwaling as instructors. In addition, we hire translator(s) for field work, as necessary. We are, by the way, looking for a new field manager for Bridges 2004; we would prefer to hire someone who has already completed an expedition with us.

What are your qualifications for this program?

Sicroff: four years plus in Nepal; seven visits: 1974-76, 1981-82, 1988, April 1999, Aug. 1999-Jan. 2000; Sept-Dec. 2001; September 2001-January 2002. MA in Geography (University of California at Davis, 1998), specializing in Himalayan tourism. Ph.D. in Oral Traditional Narrative (Harvard 1988), research in the Khumbu of Nepal. Alos Alabajos: industrial engineer specializing in Third World development; three trips to Nepal.

What's the deal with the $25?

Theoretically, it's supposed to be an indication that an applicant is really serious. Actually it's not an application fee so much as a pre-deposit. If we turn down the application, we return the fee. If we accept the application, we expect another $475 soon -- within two weeks... and all of the $2500 before December 15, 2002. There is also a $200 incentive discount for early payment.

Why doesn't the program fee cover all expenses?

Basically, we cover expenses where there is an advantage to paying as a group. We pay for the rafting trip, which must be prepaid. We are covering food and accommodations in Rolwaling, because we need to negotiate group rates and conditions; in 2003 we will also be bringing in extra food supplies, as well as lanterns and other equipment to upgrade the comfort level of the new lodges. But we are studying independent backpacking, and we want our participants to feel like independent backpackers. You can come early and stay late. If you want to spend a lot of money or scrimp, that's up to you.

Why don't you publish a catalog or brochure?

The type of people who would come on this program all have Internet access. To produce a suitably glitzy brochure or catalog would be a distraction and an expense that we can't afford. The Website also allows us to revise with impunity. And of course, we can keep costs lower and spare a few trees.

What kind of applicants are you looking for?

We believe that this opportunity should be available to anyone who really wants it. We are not looking for the "best" applicants, or for students with good records, or anything like that. Professionals and retirees are just as likely to be good team members as students. Our application procedure is not really a selection procedure. It has three other functions. First, in the course of the procedure, we expect that prospective participants will develop a clearer perception of what the program is about... and withdraw if it is not appropriate for them. This program is not just about sight-seeing and trekking; it is not a lecture course, either. There is a lot of work, and a lot of personal responsibility. It is challenging physically, emotionally, and intellectually. If you are looking for a relaxing holiday, or a spoon-fed education, you should reconsider.

Secondly, the application procedure is the beginning of the work. There is not enough time to start thinking and researching once you get to Nepal. The earlier you start, the more you'll get out of this opportunity. That is why we ask for your project proposal as part of the application material.

Third, if you are a student and need academic credit, the application process is an opportunity to work with your own program advisors or professors in designing a project that will be deemed worthy of academic credit. That is the requirement of letters of reference is optional: if you are not expecting to apply for academic or other credit, you don't have to submit them.

Do I have to be in really good shape physically? Will I be in danger?

There is no doubt that when you get home people will be impressed by what you accomplish physically on this trek, but you'll find that you are on the trail there is no question of failure. You just do it. If your bag is overweight, or if you are overweight, you'll suffer more than others; but virtually everybody suffers and everybody pushes on, and the things that hurt at first come to seem trivial. You dump the extra shampoo from your pack, and your calf muscles get in shape after a couple of days of burning.

Altitude is not a significant problem for those who approach (as we will) via the long trek it. Above 5000m, most people have some discomfort (sleeplessness, shortness of breath, cough, etc.), but we know what to expect and we watch out for trouble. You will not be in danger in that respect. On the other hand, any time you hike, you can get it trouble. At times you will be days from any medical help. If you have a chronic problem, get your doctor's approval. Moderate asthma, by the way, is not a problem: in fact, most people with asthma seem to find that the symptoms are alleviated at higher elevations.

In short, once you are there you will find that literally thousands of people are doing the same kind of thing that you are. Old people, parents with kids, unbelievably overweight people... everybody gets out there on the trail.

On the other hand, you still have some weeks. Break in your boots now, climb some steps, do a little running. You'll be glad you did, later on.

When do applications have to be in?

We have no specific deadline. We will continue to process applications until we are filled up.

What about academic credit?

We do not give credit. But, unless you go on a program sponsored by your own school, you cannot expect to get full credit automatically. Generally, as with any independent study or internship, you need to apply for credit, and for that you need your advisor's support. That is why we ask for a letter (or two) of recommendation: that way, your advisor will have discussed your proposal with you and more or less committed him- or herself to supporting your subsequent credit petition.

What if I can't get credit?

We think that this project is going to be intrinsically valuable to you. It should also lead to a line a research that can be pursued as a senior project or in grad school. Having already initiated your project, you will be in a good position to compete for grants; you will also save time fishing around for something that both you and your advisor agree is useful and feasible. Furthermore, you will make contacts in Nepal that will facilitate your further work in Nepal and elsewhere. So, in the end the project can save you time and money.

Will Bridges continue at Rolwaling?

We regard this as the pilot expedition. We hope to continue at Rolwaling, and to start similar projects elsewhere. Veterans of each Rolwaling program will be invited to participate on any subsequent Rolwaling expeditions, without paying the program fee.

What should I bring to Nepal?

Most of what you'll need is locally available. Here is a list of things you might want to acquire at some point. (The asterisked items are available cheaply in Kathmandu.)

Medical Supplies
  • *antibiotics (not amphycillin, which has been used extensively enough to produce resistant bacteria)
  • *baby powder (for "diaper rash")
  • bandaids ("plasters"); only standard ¾" size are readily available, so bring large size for big blisters, especially on rear of heel
  • blister treatment (new-skin)
  • *iodine (renewable crystals are more useful, but not readily available in Kathmandu)
  • *painkiller (aspirin, ibuprofen)
  • sleeping pills (sleeplessness is common at relatively high elevations)
  • athletes foot treatment (fungicide)
  • *antihistamines
  • *cold tablets
  • safety pins
Other stuff
  • *flashlight, batteries
  • razor blades (locally-available blades are pretty bad)
  • *light rope (eg. 10 m of heavy-duty clothesline)
  • duct tape
  • *passport photos
  • *down parka
  • *hiking boots, with good bottom support (last) and knobby cleats; light, breathable uppers are probably better than heavy leather - unless you're going to be carrying two pairs (not a great idea)
  • *sandals
  • *sleeping bag
  • *sleeping bag liner

Is this the last question?
No. To be continued.